In 1996, Time Magazine crowned Rohit Bal as “India’s Master of Fabric and Fantasy.” This wasn’t simply an honorific; it captured the essence of an artist who, in only a few years, had already changed the face of Indian fashion. Bal, the Kashmir-born designer based in Delhi, launched his eponymous label in 1990, and by the mid-90s, he was a pioneer in India’s burgeoning fashion scene. As Bal took his final bow on November 1, just two weeks after making a memorable appearance at Lakme Fashion Week, he left behind a legacy that fused Indian heritage with sheer artistic fantasy. His last show, Kaaynaat – A Bloom in the Universe, was a grand, emotional farewell that encapsulated the joy, boldness, and extravagance that defined his career.
Bal’s journey into fashion began after a history degree from St. Stephen’s College in Delhi. Following this, he pursued fashion design, later joining his brother’s export company in 1986 before launching his own menswear label. But Bal’s vision quickly transcended menswear as he began to explore and redefine Indian fashion. His designs embraced maximalism, marrying Indian heritage with bold artistry and extraordinary attention to detail. He drew heavily from Kashmir’s natural beauty, which remained a defining inspiration throughout his career. “Whatever I am today, whoever I am, it’s all Kashmir,” he once said, acknowledging the valley’s indelible influence on his craft. He may have left the Valley as a young man, but it never left him. The roses, lotuses, and peacocks that frequently adorned his designs were a tribute to Kashmir’s landscapes and symbolized his enduring connection to his roots.
Bal’s love for grandeur extended to his shows, where he turned the runway into an experience. In 2014, he staged one of his most iconic shows with the Gulbagh collection against the magnificent backdrop of the Qutub Minar, with singer Shubha Mudgal performing live. This show was emblematic of his artistic style, which blended fashion with art, history, and drama. The collection, like much of his work, drew from the essence of Kashmir, combining traditional motifs with a contemporary flair. His shows were legendary, turning his collections into grand productions that transcended conventional runway presentations. Attendees didn’t just watch a fashion show; they experienced a narrative that celebrated Indian culture in a modern, visually arresting way.
Bal’s work is characterized by his attention to detail and an affinity for motifs with deeper symbolic meanings. The lotus and peacock, for instance, were iconic elements in his designs, each holding a distinct place in his creative language. The lotus, rising from swamps, represented resilience and beauty amidst adversity, while the peacock symbolized elegance and pride. Together, these motifs reflected contrasting aspects of Indian culture and symbolized Bal’s dual appreciation for humility and grandeur. His pieces, often crafted in rich velvets and brocades, stood out for their intricate embroidery and textural layers. He had a unique knack for blending opulence with a grounded, traditional ethos that resonated with fashion enthusiasts worldwide.
His love for traditional Indian silhouettes was unmistakable. Rohit Bal was known for reimagining timeless garments like the anarkali, angrakha, sharara, and lehenga. Through his unique vision, he brought these age-old forms into the modern era, often using Western pattern-cutting techniques to lend them a contemporary twist. His long statement jackets became a symbol of his design aesthetic, fusing the grandeur of Indian textiles with the structure of Western fashion. Black and ivory were among his favorite colors, with the neutral hues brought to life by splashes of red floral embroidery, delicate zardosi work, and layers of craftsmanship that made each piece a work of art. Muslin, too, held a special place in his collections. He often chose this fabric for its organic quality, favoring its natural ivory shade that beautifully complemented his intricate designs.
Bal’s clientele included Bollywood’s elite and international stars, spreading his influence far beyond India’s borders. Celebrities like Pamela Anderson, Naomi Campbell, and Uma Thurman were seen wearing his creations, while close friend Arjun Rampal, along with Sonam Kapoor, Kareena Kapoor, Deepika Padukone, and Sushmita Sen, graced his runways as showstoppers. These high-profile associations helped Bal’s designs reach a global stage, and his aesthetic appealed to a wide range of audiences. In 2020, Ivanka Trump wore one of his pieces from the Guldastah collection to a state dinner at Rashtrapati Bhavan, further solidifying his place as a designer whose work transcended cultural boundaries.
Rohit Bal’s approach to fashion was deeply personal. He never followed trends, instead choosing to stay true to his roots and unique design philosophy. Describing himself as a “traditionalist,” Bal took pride in his craft-oriented approach, one that celebrated Indian art forms and cultural heritage. His work was timeless, each piece bearing his artistic signature and an authenticity that set him apart in the world of fast-changing fashion trends. His maximalist designs carried a timeless appeal, captivating admirers across generations and appealing to those who appreciated artistry over novelty.
Apart from his work in fashion, Bal explored other creative pursuits, including the restaurant business. He founded Veda and Cibo, upscale dining establishments that reflected his refined taste and artistic sensibility. His ventures extended to interior design, where he left his mark on luxury villas in Goa. These forays beyond fashion showcased Bal’s creativity and willingness to push the boundaries of his art. In a memorable turn of events, Bal even walked the runway as a showstopper for another designer, symbolizing his love for collaboration and his ability to embrace diverse forms of expression.
In his last days, Bal’s influence and popularity remained as strong as ever. His final show at Lakme Fashion Week, which ended with a teary-eyed, standing ovation from friends and colleagues, was a fitting conclusion to his illustrious career. Gen-Z star Ananya Panday, who closed his last show, represented the continuity of Bal’s legacy, proving his designs held an enduring appeal across generations. Even in his final moments in the spotlight, Bal’s passion and spirit were evident, as he danced with the models, embracing the joy and magic that he brought to the world of fashion.
For Bal, fashion was more than just clothing; it was a fantasy, a creative medium through which he told stories, celebrated his heritage, and expressed his personality. His life’s work continues to inspire aspiring designers and fashion enthusiasts alike, bridging the gap between India’s rich past and its vibrant, modern future. The timeless elements in his designs the roses, the peacocks, and the ethereal touch of Kashmir—remain a tribute to his roots and a reminder of the incredible beauty he brought to the world.
Sonam Kapoor, who wore a Rohit Bal ensemble upon hearing of his passing, perhaps best embodies the lasting influence he has on Indian fashion. He bridged the worlds of traditional Indian craftsmanship and contemporary art, leaving behind a legacy that goes beyond trends and transcends time. His creations, like his life, told stories, and through them, he transformed the Indian fashion industry, elevating it to a place of global admiration and respect. With every stitch, every motif, and every runway spectacle, Rohit Bal created not just clothes but an artistic legacy that will live on, forever cherished by those who appreciate the magic of fashion as art.
